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How controller repairs work

One guide for Xbox, PlayStation, Switch and pro controllers: what each joystick type is, how they compare, and how the repairs are done.

Xbox, PlayStation and Switch controllersCharging portPro controllersMouse click modsJoystick types

Xbox, PlayStation and Switch Controllers

Joystick types: OEM vs Hall Effect vs TMR

OEM joystick Stock feel

OEM means the same kind of stick the controller came with from the factory. Inside, a small contact slides across a thin resistive track to tell the console where the stick is. It is simple, proven, and feels exactly like your controller did on day one.

What it's good for

  • The lowest price, and the right fit for older controllers where magnetic sticks are not offered, like the Xbox One.
  • Anyone who wants the stock feel back with no change in behavior.
  • A straightforward fix for a drifting, worn or loose stick.

What to know

Because the contact physically rubs the track, it wears over time, the same way your original stick did. A new OEM stick starts out fresh and can last a long time, but drift can come back eventually, especially with heavy daily play.

Works on: Xbox One, Xbox Series, PS4 and DualSense. 6-month warranty.

Hall Effect Drift-resistant

A Hall Effect stick has a small magnet that moves with the stick and a sensor that reads the magnet's position. Nothing rubs against anything to measure the movement, so the part of a stick that normally wears out and causes drift is gone.

What it's good for

  • Players who got drift once and never want to deal with it again.
  • Smooth, consistent movement over the life of the stick.
  • A strong upgrade for the price. It fixes the root cause of drift, not just the symptom.

What to know

  • The thumbstick caps, springs and plastic can still wear after years of use. Hall Effect removes the drift-causing sensor wear, not every kind of wear.
  • Strong magnets placed right against the controller can interfere with it, so keep magnetic accessories away from the sticks.
  • It can feel very slightly different from stock at first. I calibrate and test every stick before it goes back to you.

Works on: Xbox Series X and S, PS4 and DualSense. Not offered for Xbox One controllers. 6-month warranty.

TMR Most precise

TMR stands for tunnel magnetoresistance. It is also a magnet-based stick with no rubbing contact, but it uses a newer, more sensitive kind of magnetic sensor. In plain terms, it can read tiny movements more accurately and consistently than Hall Effect, and it typically uses less power.

What it's good for

  • Competitive and high-hour players who want the tightest, most precise stick response.
  • Fine aiming, where small stick movements matter.
  • People who want the longest-lasting option available, with zero drift from sensor wear.

What to know

  • It costs more than Hall Effect. If you just want drift gone, Hall Effect already does that. TMR is for people who want the extra precision.
  • Like Hall Effect, it is magnet-based, so strong magnets near the sticks can cause problems.
  • Caps, springs and plastic can still wear over time. I calibrate and test every stick before it goes back to you.

Works on: Xbox Series X and S, PS4 and DualSense. Not offered for Xbox One controllers. 6-month warranty.

Side by side

OEMHall EffectTMR
How it sensesSliding contact on a resistive trackMagnet and magnetic sensorMagnet and a newer, more sensitive sensor
Can drift from sensor wearYes, over timeEssentially removedEssentially removed
FeelExactly stockSmooth and consistentSmoothest and most precise
Xbox One$25Not offeredNot offered
Xbox Series X and S$25$45$65
PS4$20$35$45
DualSense$25$45$55
Warranty6 months6 months6 months

Prices are for both sticks. Bring several controllers and the multi-controller discount applies. Elite and DualSense Edge controllers have their own rules, see the Pro Controllers page.

Which one should I pick?

  • On a budget, or an older controller: OEM.
  • Tired of drift and want it fixed for good: Hall Effect.
  • Competitive, or you just want the best: TMR.

Not sure? Text me what your controller is doing at 385-504-1091 and I'll point you to the right one.

Joystick replacement

🔧 How a joystick repair is done
  1. Diagnose the driftI check the stick with a test tool to confirm it is drifting and rule out software or a dirty stick.
  2. Open the controllerThe shell is opened carefully, avoiding ribbon cables and the battery.
  3. Remove the old stick moduleThe worn stick module is desoldered or unclipped from the board.
  4. Install the new stickAn OEM stick goes in for a straight replacement. For Hall Effect or TMR, a magnetic-sensor stick replaces the old one, which removes the wear point that causes drift.
  5. Calibrate and testI test the full range of motion, deadzones and centering, then reassemble.

Charging Port

🔌 How a charging port repair is done
  1. Confirm the problemI check whether the port is loose, bent, or no longer charging, and rule out the cable.
  2. Open the controllerThe shell and battery are removed and the board is exposed.
  3. Replace the portThe damaged port is desoldered and a new one is soldered in: USB-C for Xbox Series and DualSense, Micro USB for Xbox One. PS4 controllers can also be converted from Micro USB to USB-C.
  4. Test and reassembleI test charging and data with a known-good cable and check for a solid fit before closing it up.

Pro Controllers

Joystick replacement

🔧 How a joystick repair is done
  1. Diagnose the driftI check the stick with a test tool to confirm it is drifting and rule out software or a dirty stick.
  2. Open the controllerThe shell is opened carefully, avoiding ribbon cables and the battery.
  3. Remove the old stick moduleThe worn stick module is desoldered or unclipped from the board.
  4. Install the new stickAn OEM stick goes in for a straight replacement. For Hall Effect or TMR, a magnetic-sensor stick replaces the old one, which removes the wear point that causes drift.
  5. Calibrate and testI test the full range of motion, deadzones and centering, then reassemble.

Model by model

Pro and custom controllers get the same basic stick repair, but each one comes apart differently. Here’s what I do for each.

🔧 Xbox Elite Series 2 (and Core)

Inside, the Elite isn’t that different from a standard Xbox controller. The stick is soldered to the main board just like on a regular pad, there are just more extras to be careful around. The Elite Series 2 Core is the same controller inside, so it gets the same process.

  1. Check it firstI confirm the drift and check the paddles, trigger locks and stick tension, so I know how everything worked before I open it.
  2. Take off the top caseThe removable paddles, D-pad and stick tops come off first. The top case is held by snap clips and adhesive strips, so I work it loose slowly with plastic tools, because those clips break if you rush them.
  3. Open the backSecurity screws hold the back case on, with one hidden under the tamper sticker. The back case carries the trigger locks and paddle hardware, so I lift it away carefully without pinching any wires.
  4. Free the main boardI unplug the two small antenna cables, unscrew the stick shafts and lift the main board out. The rumble motor wires are soldered on and fragile, so I keep them supported the whole time.
  5. Replace the stickThe worn stick is desoldered and a new OEM one is soldered in, with the parts around it protected from the heat. Hall Effect and TMR can’t be guaranteed on the Elite Series 2, so OEM is the standard fix here.
  6. Reassemble and testI set the trigger locks to full travel before the back goes on, put everything together, recalibrate the sticks, then test the paddles, trigger locks and tension.
🔧 SCUF

SCUF’s back paddles and extra buttons add a lot of wiring, and each model is laid out differently (Instinct and Instinct Pro for Xbox, Reflex for PlayStation, Envision for PC), so I follow the layout of your model.

  1. Check it firstI confirm the drift and test every paddle and extra button, so I know they all worked going in.
  2. Open the shellDepending on the model, that means trim pieces, clips and screws. On a Reflex the paddles slide off and the back case unclips. On an Instinct the faceplate comes off and the midframe lifts away from the back cover.
  3. Disconnect the paddle ribbonsThe back paddles and buttons connect through thin aftermarket ribbon cables with tiny locking connectors. I release them before the halves come apart, because a torn paddle ribbon is hard to repair and replacements are hard to find.
  4. Clear a path to the boardA SCUF has many more wires and connectors than a standard controller: antenna leads, board-to-board connectors, the battery and fine wires along the edge of the stick board. Several of them have to be unplugged, moved aside or, on some models, desoldered before I can reach the stick.
  5. Replace the stickThe sticks are soldered to the board, so I desolder the old one, clean up the pads and solder in the new OEM, Hall Effect or TMR stick you picked.
  6. Reconnect and testEvery ribbon, connector and wire goes back where it came from. Then I test the sticks, every paddle and every extra button before closing it up.
🔧 Battle Beaver

Battle Beaver builds its controllers from stock PlayStation and Xbox controllers and modifies them, so inside it’s mostly the stock layout plus their custom parts. Some PC-only builds use a different board, so I check which version you have first.

  1. Check it firstI confirm the problem and test every custom feature, like the rear buttons and any trigger or bumper mods, so I know how everything worked going in.
  2. Open it like the stock controllerThe shell comes apart the same way as the standard controller it’s built on, screws and clips included.
  3. Mind the modsThe rear buttons are drilled into the back shell and wired to the inside, and trigger or bumper mods can add more wiring. I keep those wires slack and never tug on them while the shell is open.
  4. Replace the stickOn a standard board the stick is soldered in, just like on a stock controller, so I desolder it and solder in the replacement, as long as your model is compatible. I confirm that with you before any work starts.
  5. Reassemble and testI close it up without pinching the rear button wires, then test the sticks and every custom feature before it goes back to you.
🔧 DualSense Edge

The Edge is the odd one out. Its sticks live in swappable modules that slide out from the front, so most stick repairs happen inside the module, not inside the controller.

  1. Check it firstI confirm the drift and swap the left and right modules to see if the problem follows the module.
  2. Slide the module outThe front cover comes off with the release latch on the back. Then I lift the metal lever and slide the module out, no shell screws needed.
  3. Open the moduleEach module has its own small housing with a tiny board inside. I open it carefully, because the housing and the small parts around the stick are easy to damage.
  4. Replace the stickThe stick inside the module is soldered to that little board, so I desolder it and solder in a new OEM, Hall Effect or TMR stick.
  5. Calibrate the moduleEdge modules keep their own calibration, so after a stick swap I recalibrate the module so it centers properly.
  6. If the fault is in the controllerIf the problem is in the controller itself and not the module, opening the Edge is a much bigger job. It has a lot more screws than a standard DualSense and a completely different shell, plus the back button boards to disconnect, so I take my time.
  7. Reassemble and testThe module slides back in until it clicks, the lever goes down and the cover snaps on. Then I test the full stick range, centering and buttons.

Compare OEM vs Hall Effect vs TMR ↑

Elite and DualSense Edge controllers have their own rules, see the Pro Controllers page.

Mouse Click Mods

Heads up: Mouse click mods here are done with ExtremeRate kits only. I haven't worked with any other mouse click brand, so I can't speak to how those would turn out.

🖱️ How a mouse click mod is done

A mouse click mod swaps the standard controller buttons for switches that click like a mouse button. That makes rapid inputs faster and lighter.

  1. Pick your controller and kitPS4, DualSense, DualSense Edge, or Xbox Elite Series 2. The standard kit changes the main buttons. The full kit also adds the triggers and bumpers.
  2. Open the controllerThe shell is opened carefully, avoiding battery and ribbon cables.
  3. Install the click switchesSwitches are added or swapped at each chosen button location on the board.
  4. Test every inputEach modified button is tested for a clean click, and the unmodified inputs are checked to make sure they still work.
  5. Reassemble and final checkThe controller is closed up and tested once more on the console.

Note: on the DualSense Edge, adding mouse click completely stops the adjustable triggers. On the Xbox Elite Series 2, adjustable triggers still work with the Xtreme Clicky kits, and with any other brand mouse click disables them.

Ready to fix yours?

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